Ikea Symfonisk Amp Custom Enclosure

3D printing Feb 19, 2021

Hopefully you've already modded your Ikea Symfonisk.  If not, check out that article first.

Now you want to put it in a snazzy new case.

First, head over to cults3d and download the files.  Yes, I'm asking a very small amount to try and recoup the hundreds of hours put into making it easy to print and documenting the whole process.

Now lets dive into the assembly process.

Step 1 - Mounting the Heatsink

While you shouldn't need to ream out any of the post holes, if you find them too tight to screw into ,use a 3/32in (3mm) drill bit.  Make sure to use the flat ended screws to mount the heatsink to the bottom case piece. Do not overtighten!  Turn until there is no jiggle between the heatsink and case.

Step 2 - Mount the Button PCB and Soft Buttons

The top two screw posts on this section are for the main PCB mounting.  While you shouldn't need to ream these out, test using a bevel ended screw (non-flat tip) and if needed, drill out with a 3/32in (3mm) drill bit.  

The 4 smaller screw posts do not need to be drilled out at all.

Insert the Soft buttons into the case.  Using the 3/32in drill bit, ream out the 4 holes on the Button PCB to ensure it smoothly fits on the 4 alignment posts. Then place the black assembly holder from the original Symfonisk on top of the button PCB and screw it into place.  Do not overtighten!  You just want a barely snug fit.

Step 3 - Snap lower case parts together

The pieces snap fit together, and should be a very tight fit by design.  The side without an inner lip should be oriented towards the button cutouts.

Step 4 - Mount the speaker posts

Grab your speaker binding posts, this case is designed to use the Conway 4mm Banana Plug Socket Binding Posts, but should work with any 4mm binding posts. Mount the terminals at an angle as shown, away from the main PCB.  Connect the speaker wires to the posts and them push them down flat into the case.  Be sure to use lock washers to hold everything tightly in place.  Blue/White is negative terminal, and Red/Black is Positive terminal.

Step 4 - Mount the Main PCB

The PCB Mounts by first sliding the power connector corner under the power connection boss in the case.  Push the PCB as far forward under this boss as you can and it will just clear the rear bosses for screwing in the top plate of the case.

Push the PCB down then push it away from the Button assembly to the back of the case.  It should line up with the Heatsink and case mounting posts with very little adjustment.  You should use the tapered screws for all 6 mounting points for the main PCB.  Again do not overtighten.

Step 5 - Mount the power connector

The power connector uses a friction fit with two screws.  It will be very tight.  If you printed with supports, make sure they are fully removed.  If you printed without supports, make sure there was no drooping.  I use a pair of slip-joint pliers with paper towels as cushion to force the connector into it's slot fully.

Then use a right-angle / offset screwdriver to put the two screws into place for the power connector.  They only need to be put in until snug, do not overtighten.

Plug in the power cable to the PCB. Press the cable down so it will comfortably rest within the space of the case when the back plate is put on.

Step 6 - Connect Button PCB Cable, Speaker Cable, and Mount Wifi Antennas

Connect the button PCB flex cable, pins down.  Connect the Speaker cable.

The mount the Wifi Antenna blocks as shown.  If you weren't able to save the original double-sided tape when removing them, apply double sided tape to the bottoms.

Step 7 - Put the back plate on and close the case

Like with the other parts, you shouldn't need to ream out these holes, but if you find them too tight, use a 9/64in (4mm) drill bit to ream the holes out for a better fit.  Use 4 of the large case screws from the Symfonisk speaker case plate, and optionally cover these 4 screws with 4 of the feet from either the bottom or side of the Symfonisk case.

Now you can mount your Amp to any wall, ceiling, or stud!

BOM (Bill of Materials)

Here's the list of everything you could possibly need to get this mod done.  You probably have most of it already.  The products below are either ones I personally own, or if I ever needed a replacement, what I would personally purchase.